Custom made seamless textures

Custom made seamless textures in Photoshop

  • To start of with go to File>New to create a new document.
  • In the create new document screen I’m using the following settings.

  • I
    set width and height to 1024 pixels with a resolution of 72
    pixels/inch. Having width and height the same is common practice but
    some certain patterns require different dimensions. If you are planning
    to print the pattern then use inches or centimeters and the resolution
    should be at least 150 dpi.
  • Working on the
    centerlines of the canvas create a few shapes like shown below. As long
    as nothing is overlapping the borders of the document then the next few
    step are a breeze.

  • Make a copy one of the original shapes and select all layers except for the just copied.
  • Under the Layer menu select merge layers.
  • Under the Filter menu select other>offset. This
    filter will flip anything from the center to the border. Set horizontal
    and vertical pixels to half the width and height of the document.
    verify that the wrap around option is picked.

  • Notice the image below after the filter is applied.

  • Now copy that original shape a few time and place them around the image like before(just stay away form the borders).
  • Finally,
    merge all the layers and that is what we call a seamless texture. If
    you don’t believe me hit the offset filter a few times and notice how
    the images don’t show any seams.

  • To
    get the below texture I duplicated, rotated, colored, and offset the
    layers with different pixel dimensions pixels. Once seamless a pattern
    can be offset by any dimension and still work.


Thank You for reading.

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Create a Spectacular Grass Text Effect in Photoshop

Create a Spectacular Grass Text Effect in Photoshop 

Final Product What You’ll Be Creating


Step 1

This tutorial is made up of three parts—the background, the text
itself, and some final extra effects. So first of all we’re going to
make a background. To do this we create a new document in Photoshop. I
made mine 1920 x 1200 because I want this image to sit on my laptop
background.

We start by drawing a Radial Gradient with the Gradient Tool (G)
going from a light yellow-green (#adbf41) to a mid-range green
(#328a26). I wonder if I’ve ever written a tutorial that doesn’t start
with a radial gradient. :-)


Step 2

Now for this image we want to create a really textured background,
faintly resembling paper. So the first thing we need is … a paper
texture!

Happily you can grab some really awesome grungy paper textures from Bittbox and they are nice and large too, which is good because this is a huge canvas.

So I can’t remember which texture I used first, but grab one,
desaturate it (Ctrl+Shift+U) and stretch it over the top to fit the
canvas.


Step 3

Now we set the layer to Overlay and 70% Opacity to blend the texture with our nice green background.


Step 4

Now to get a really distressed look, I then copied this layer, spun
it around 180′ and set it to 20%. Then I brought in a few more layers of
paper texture (using different textures, mostly from Bittbox) and set
them all to faint overlays, one on top of the other.

This was partly for the extra distress, but also because I realised
that the textures looked a bit grainy and not small and sharp. So by
combining extra textures and then fading it all back, I can get a nicer,
sharper overall look.

Anyhow as you can see in the screenshot there are six layers here.
Don’t forget if you are a Plus member you can download the PSD file for
this tutorial and take a look in there yourself!


Step 5

Now I duplicated the original background gradient, placed the
duplicate layer above all the textures and set it to 40% Opacity—this
tones back the texture so it’s not quite so grungy!


Step 6

Now we create a new layer over the top and using a large, soft, black
brush, add some black to the edges. It’s worth toning back the opacity
to about 30% and Overlay. You can then duplicate the layer and run a
heavy Gaussian Blur over it (set to about 32px). That way the edges
really soften out.


Step 7

OK, we now have a nice background!


Step 8

OK, we are now ready to make some grass text. To do that, we’re going
to need some nice pretty grass to cut. After a lot of searching, I
finally found this lovely photo on Flickr of grass.

So download the image at full-size and copy it on to your canvas.


Step 9

Next we need some type. So select a font you want to cut out with. I
chose Swiss 924BT, which is fat and condensed type. I thought it looked
nice and grand. And I’ve written the text “EARTH”. That’s because I’m
making five of these wallpapers—earth, water, fire, air, spirit … it’s
like that cartoon I used to watch as a kid, Captain Planet!

Anyways, so just set your text out in white and set it to Overlay and
like 50% Opacity. This layer won’t actually show in the end, it’s just a
guide layer.


Step 10

OK, so here’s the text on top of the grass we got earlier.

Now a bit of planning! To make text out of grass, it’s not going to
be enough just to stencil out the grass. Rather we need it to look all
rough, with bits of grass sticking out the edges. To do that, we’re
going to use the letter shapes as a rough guide and then trace roughly
around them and periodically jut out to trace around blades of grass.

I’ll warn you now, it’s very tiresome!


Step 11

OK, so here we are tracing. You should use the Pen Tool (P) and
frankly, if you’re not handy with it before you start, you will be by
the end!

Notice how in the parts where my path juts out, it sort of follows
individual blades of grass. That way when you have the final cut-out
they will look like pieces of grass sticking out.


Step 12

When you’ve finished your path, it’s best to save it in the Paths
Palette. You can do this by switching to that palette and then clicking
the little down arrow and choosing Save Path. That way if you need the
path again later, you can grab it.

Anyhow, double-click the path to get the selection and go back to
your grass layer. Duplicate the grass layer so you still have more grass
for the other letters, then invert your selection (Ctrl+Shift+I) and
cut away the excess grass. In the screenshot I’ve faded back the
duplicate grass layer so you can see the cut out “E” part.


Step 13

OK, so here we have our “E” on the final bakcground. As you can see,
it looks only slightly better than if we’d just used the letter to
stencil out the grass without bothering to trace. But that’s OK, what it
needs is a bit more depth. After all, if that letter was really sitting
there, we should see some shadow and sides to it.


Step 14

First of all though, we’ll add some layer styling to give it a bit more of a three dimensional look. The styles are shown below.

Here’s the first set of layer styles…


Step 15

Now duplicate that layer, then clear the layer style off the
duplicate, so we can add some more styles. This time add the styles
shown below…

Here’s the second set of layer styles… (Note that it’s 51% Opacity so it’ll blend in with the previous layer)

 
 
 
 

Step 16

So this was all just experimental, and it kinda looks OK, but
obviously has a long way to go. Now we’ll add some shadow. For that
we’ll use a technique that I demonstrated in a previous tutorial, Using Light and Shade to Bring Text to Life

The idea is to make a three dimensional look. So Ctrl-click the grass
layer and then in a new layer below, fill it with black. Then press the
down arrow once and the right arrow once and fill it again, then repeat
over and over until you get an effect like that shown. I think that was
about 15 steps of filling.


Step 17

Now we run a Filter > Blur > Motion Blur on our shadow with a
45′ angle and a distance of about 30. Then set the text to a low opacity
of about 50%. You should have something that looks like the screenshot
below.


Step 18

Now move the shadow layer down and to the right and magic happens!
All of a sudden it looks like the letter is casting a shadow. Pretty
neat!


Step 19

Now I duplicated this layer three times. Each time I erased a bit of
it away so that as the shadow is closer to the text it gets darker. I
set these layers to Multiply.


Step 20

So this text is looking pretty cool, but for that extra bit of depth
we should add some bits of grass in the background/shadow area. Rather
than cutting out more grass, we can just use this current letter
transformed about so that it’s not obvious that we’re hacking it
together.

So as you can see below I created a few pieces of grass. They are just cut up bits of our main letter.


Step 21

Now by moving those pieces into the shadow areas, we can make it look
like there is grass sticking out and it’s a real 3D object made from
grass!

Because these new grass bits are in shadow, you might want to use the Burn Tool (O) to darken them appropriately.


Step 22

So yay, one letter down … four to go! Good thing we didn’t choose a long word like erm I don’t know … laborious!


Step 23

Using the exact same technique … here is the A;


Step 24

and the R and T … you get the picture.


Step 25

And finally, the whole word! The only extra thing I did here was to
move the letters apart a little. Each letter is in its own Layer Group
which makes moving it around much easier.


Step 26

Now nice as it’s looking, our text is a little lonely and monotonous.
So in this last section we’ll add a few more elements to the design.
Note we don’t want to overdo it, though, because I want this to be a
desktop background, so space it is important (for all my icons!).

So first up, let’s add some extra text. Here I’ve placed a nice quote
about the earth and unity taken from the Baha’i faith (that’s my
religion!). I love quotes, because it means we get three parts to
decorate—the quote, the quotation marks and the source.

The text is in a variation of Swiss which is thinner, but still
condensed. Using multiple fonts from the same family (heavy, light, etc)
is a good, safe bet for keeping your type looking coherent.

So here I’ve set the quote to Overlay and 50%, then duplicated the
text and set it to Screen and 50%. Then I’ve added quotation marks in
the same Swiss font, but made them extra large and a bright shade of
green. Finally, the source of the quote is in teeny letters and centered
vertically. And, of course, the whole quote has been measured out so
it’s exactly the length of the main “EARTH” text.


Step 27

Next we’ll add a bit of a highlight to the scene. To do this, create a
new layer above all the rest, and using the Gradient Tool (G), draw a
gradient of white -> transparent towards the top left. Then set this
layer to Soft Light and 50%. This will turn it into a nice subtle bit of
lighting.


Step 28

Now we’ll add two eye-catching elements to offset all the green.
These will be a brilliant blue butterfly and a little red ladybug. I
used the excellent everystockphoto Web site that searches a ton of free stock Web sites for you to find two awesome images to use: Ladybug | Butterfly


Step 29

Placing the images is pretty easy. First the butterfly. We just open
up the image in Photoshop, use the Magic Wand Tool (W) to select all the
white area, then go to Select > Modify > Expand and expand the
selection by 1px to make sure we’ve got it all. Then press Ctrl+Shift+I
to invert the selection and copy the butterfly over to our main canvas.

The ladybug I selected needs to be cut out of it’s image. To do that I
used the Pen Tool (P) and traced around the little guy and then just
cut him out that way.


Step 30

So here are our two extras. As you can see, the lady bug looks a bit
weird actually because I did a quick’n’dirty job of cutting him out. But
that’s OK because he’s going to be tiny so you won’t be able to see the
details anyway.

So paste them in and then shrink them down and place them
appropriately. It’s best if they aren’t close together, because that way
they’ll balance each other.

I added a drop shadow to each. With the ladybug it’s a very close
shadow because he’s small and walking on the grass. With the butterfly, I
set the distance to about 10px because he’s hovering in the air and
therefore the shadow lands a little ways away.


Final Image

Using Light and Shade to Bring Text to Life

Using Light and Shade to Bring Text to Life 

Light Sources

So before we start the tutorial, here is a little diagram about how
light might hit an object. Here we have a square object in the middle
with light coming from the top left. You can see that where the light
hits the object, a shadow is cast on the other side. Note that the
shadow is not a Photoshop drop shadow, which makes the object look like
it’s hovering above the canvas. Here we want the object to look like
it’s a three dimensional thing stuck on the canvas, extruding if you
like. Now tell me what other Photoshop tutorial site gives you diagrams?
It’s like being back in school!


Step 1

We begin the tutorial by drawing a subtle Linear Gradient from dark
grey to darker grey. Note that because we want our light to come from
the top left, that’s where the lighter part of the document is.


Step 2

Now we place some text. I’ve used a very cool font called Agency FB,
which has a condensed, hard-edge feel to it. You should make the text a
grey-ish blue color – #c2c8d4 to be precise.


Step 3

Next Ctrl-click the text layer and create a new layer above it. In
the new layer, with that selection still held, draw a linear gradient of
#495a79 to transparent from bottom right to left. So in other words you
are darkening the bottom right as shown.


Step 4

Set your foreground color to Black (you can do this by pressing the letter ‘D’ on your keyboard which restores the defaults).

Now Ctrl-click the text layer again and create a new layer beneath
the text layer. Now press the down arrow on your keyboard once and the
right arrow on your keyboard once. Then press Alt+Backspace to fill it
with black. Then press down and right again one time and fill with
black. Each time you will be moving 1px right and 1px down. You should
repeat this process about 30 times (which is why it’s important to use
Alt+Backspace instead of the Fill tool).

Note also that to move the selection but not the fills when you press
your arrow keys, you have to have one of the Marquee tools on. If you
switch to the Move Tool (V) when you press down and right you will
actually move the black fill as well as the selection and will just be
filling the same pixels over and over.


Step 5

Here’s what you should now have. Now deselect and make sure you are
on the shadow layer, then go to Filter > Blur > Motion Blur and
use values of -45 degrees and a distance of 30px.


Step 6

Set your shadow layer to Multiply and about 40% Opacity and then hold
down Shift and press the down arrow and then the right arrow. This will
move your object right and down 10px each (Shift tells Photoshop to go
10px at a time instead of 1). Now you may have some of the blurred parts
of the shadow sticking out to the top and left of the object. If this
is the case, grab a small soft eraser and gently erase away anything
which shouldn’t be shaded (remember the diagram at the beginning).


Step 7

Next duplicate the shadow layer, hold Shift and move it down and
right again. Then run the Motion Blur filter again with a distance of
50px this time and set this layer to Multiply and 20% Opacity. This is
just to give our shadows more of a trail off.


Step 8

Now create a new layer above all the other layers, hold down Ctrl and
click the main text layer to select its pixels and back on your new
layer fill the selection with White. Don’t let go of the selection just
yet though. Instead press down and right one time to move 1px away and
then hit Delete.

Set this thin white line layer to about 80% Opacity.


Step 9

As you can see, the thin white line gives a sort of highlight effect
where the light source is hitting the text and gives the impression that
the text is more three dimensional.


Step 10

Next we want to create some streams of natural light. Create a new
layer above all the others and draw four or five white rectangles
approximately similar to those shown (i.e. getting fatter as they go
down).


Step 11

Now press Ctrl+T to transform and rotate and enlarge the rectangles
as shown. Now normally you’d press Enter when you’re finished, but this
time don’t let go just yet. Instead, right-click and you will get a pop
up menu showing you other types of transforms you can do. Choose
Perspective. The reason it’s important to do this in one step is so that
you don’t lose your bounding box. So take the top left two points and
bring them closer together so that the light appears to be coming from
one place and spreading out.


Step 12

Here we have our four strips of “light.” Now set the layer to Overlay
and 20% Opacity and then go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and
give it a blur radius of 6px.


Step 13

You should now have something that looks like this.


Step 14

Now since those thin strips are meant to be light, it would make
sense if our highlight layer only showed up where the light was hitting
right? So Ctrl-click the light layer and then click on the highlight
layer from earlier, then while the selection is still on, click on the
Add Layer Mask button (it’s the one at the bottom of the layer palette
to the right of the ‘f’ icon). This will create a Mask that only shows
the highlight layer where the light overlaps it.


Step 15

So you could stop here; it’s already looking pretty good, but we’ll finish this effect off by adding some warm lighting.


Step 16

So first of all create a new layer just above the background and fill it with a pinkish color – #9d506c.


Step 17

Now set the pink layer’s blending mode to Colour and the opacity to
20%. This gives our background a nice reddish-warmth. Over the top of
this we can now mix in some yellows. If we don’t put in the reddish cast
underneath, the result comes out looking overly yellow and not
particularly real.


Step 18

Next we create a layer just above the pink. Fill it completely with
white and then go to Filter > Render > Lighting Effects. I don’t
often use Lighting Effects, but it does have one very cool preset called
the Two O’clock Spotlight, which you can select by going to Style at
the top and looking through the options. You can pretty much use this as
default, but for our purposes it helps to extend the ellipse to make it
a little longer (i.e. the spotlight is a little further off).


Step 19

Now we set the lighting layer to Overlay and you have something like
shown below. Now duplicate that layer, move it above all the other and
set it to 40% Opacity. This makes sure that our warm lighting is also
interacting with the text and not just the background.


Conclusion

Finally, we duplicate the top lighting layer one more time and set it
to 65% Opacity, then click the Add Layer Mask button on the layers
palette again and draw a linear white to black gradient from top left to
bottom right. This makes the extra lighting layer fade off as it goes
down right.